Innovation and Variation of Patterns on Aso- Oke of Yoruba Land

Aso-oke fabrics in use in overtime are usually plain with little or no variation of patterns; the patterns are obsolete and cumbersome, thus making the fabrics heavy and thick thereby not convenient especially for all purpose dress wears. Therefore, there is the need for innovation in pattern drafting, if one is to achieve variety of designs. However, Aso-oke is usually from a horizontal loom and it is always in narrow strips of limited width span. This study explored innovation and variation of patterns on Aso-oke by creating different patterns based on weave plan, lifting/pegging plan, weave drafts, threading and treading of the broad plain loom. The research is studio based and it adopted studio exploratory method. Information was gathered through the existing literature from libraries, internet, exhibition catalogs, published and unpublished academic papers. Exploration in this work involved the manipulation of weft yarns to create innovative designs, using different yarns or threads, different techniques of warping and weft lifting plan. The materials used were: broad plain loom, creel, warping drum, various yarns, weaving accessories, scissors and measuring tape. Findings include the discovery that while weaving, the beating of the web by the reed increases the thickness of the fabric; by applying lighter pressure, the fabric is lighter in weight. It was also noted that, while weaving the weight of the fabric of (3) three weft ply yarns used to interlace the warp yarns was lighter than the one with (5) five or six (6) ply. By not applying glue to the weft yarns the fabrics were lighter in weight than those that glue was applied. However, wide woven fabrics were produced with longer span (51cm instead of 15cm width). Furthermore, it was found that the more the number of ends that pass through the eyes of the heddle and reed dents the thicker the fabric. Sizeable woven fabrics were created. The fabrics would be attractive to consumers, fashion designers and textile entrepreneurs.